so for the first time in my life i've had to evacuate myself from somewhere. a strange experience. so i'm writing this from my friends place in jerusalem.
last week i had begun to shift my emphasis from just language learning to more systematic research. i moved up to the northern town of jenin which has been one of the places which has suffered most brutaly from the isrli occuption over the last five years. through contacts that i've made while i've been out here i was able to get hooked up with a good bunch of people in the town who are themselves very well connected. after eight months of moving from place to place i was all set to start putting my roots down there and preparing to make that place home for the next few years of my life.
yesterday a group of about 45 internationals were making a visit to a village near by and then later on touring the refugee camp in the town itself. As i was waiting to meet the group in the village i got a few texts and then a call from my American friend, Em, in jerusalem. She was telling me about some sketchy news of an Isrli assault on the Palestinan prison in jericho. She had heard the helicopers fly over her office. the official reason given for the attack was to arrest or kill one of the inmates who was the leader of the organisation who murdered a right-wing isrli minister in 2001 - an attack which itselft was retaliation for the isrli assassination of the group's leader a few weeks earlier. But with just two weeks to go until the isrli general election and an acting prime-minister in need of proving his willingness to use brutal force against the occupied palestnian people, this seemed more like electoral campainging Middle East-style rather than for genuine security concerns.
When the group arrived i told the leaders the news i'd heard. they were more than a little suprised as they had driven past the prison on their way north just a couple of hours earlier. As they'd driven past the prison one of the women on the bus had had a strange feeling and said to the woman next to her that that place needed a lot of prayer just now.
After the group had eaten lunch and listened to various community leaders welcome all internationals to their land, pleaded for more to come and witness the situation here, and expressed their deepest desire to live in peace with members of all religions and to be free from fear of vilonence and oppression, the group got ready to leave for jenin. however news came through that the situation had worsened and angry responses were spreading through the west bank and gaza with many internationals being targeted so it wasn't a good idea for them to go to the town. As they were making plans to lay low in the village for the next hour before going on as planned to the safety of nazareth, my phone rang. It was my friend in jenin telling me the latest news but that i shouldn't worry and it would be ok for me to return to jenin. he would meet me at the bus station. by the time i returned to the group they had been adviced that they should leave immediately as the situation was increasingly unpredictable. so they made their way hastily to their bus and were whisked away.
i got into the front seat of the sevice taxi and waited for it to fill up before it could leave. the others in the car were fixed on to listening to the news on the radio from the beseiged prison to the south. there were reports coming through that internationals had been taken hostage, so there was an unspoken understanding as to why i was acting a little tense. the battery on my phone was very low so the driver obliged by charging it through his cord. i had heard the name of the man the isrlis wanted a few times while i'd been here but i hadn't realised the extent of his popularity until now. it seemed invevitable that by the end of the day he was going to be dead, presumably along with countless others in addition to the two or three who had already been killed. it was too difficult to understand any of the arabic reporting that was coming through because of the background noise of constant military activity. but the driver answered my question that the man had not yet been killed.
As the car pulled away to begin the 20 minute trip to jenin i called my friend there to make sure he'd be waiting for me at the terminal. he'd be there and he asked me not to worry about anything. i guessed that when i got there we'd just get straight in a taxi and go straight to the house. A couple of minutes later my friend Em called again and asked how i was. "A little anxious," i replied. She was extremely concerned for me and started freaking out a bit when i told her i was in a car by myself on the way to jenin. i told her i expected to be ok if i would just go and lay low in the house, but she didn't think i realised how serious the situation had become. She told me that British and American citizens were being specificaly targeted for kidnapping. riots were breaking out in towns that were normally quiet. We exchanged some choice words as the car hurtled on and the wind from the open window blew against my face. i decided that i would wait until i got to the town and see what the situation there was like. She still didn't like that idea. the isrlis were firing tank rounds into the middle of this prison and tearing the walls down. palestinians were feeling very passionately about this invasion and were looking for ways to vent their anger. this wasn't the normal shit, she said. when most people express concern its taken with a pinch of salt, but this was a girl who was not adverse to taking risks herself and who worked in a political office with palestinians.
my friend was waiting for me in the town centre. i explained that my friend felt very strongly that i shouldn't be there and that four brits had been kidnapped already. "it's just gone up to six brits," he said as we walked along the street. he adviced that if anybody asked where i was from that i should just say 'Europe'. this didn't exactly strike me as being a guarantee of immunity. Just earlier a group of masked men had been firing automatic weapons in the town centre in protest, he told me. He also let me know that he'd told his friends who knew me not to tell anybody where i was from or where i was. there's only a handful of internationals in jenin at the best of times and i had the strong feeling that even most of these were no longer there. i expressed my concern that i didn't feel safe walking around like this, but we carried on up to an upstairs cafe over-looking the road below. As we sat drinking mint tea, i said that i may have to go back to the village i had come from where i had been offered a place to stay as it would probably be less tense than in the town. He assured me that this wasn't necessary but if i felt that's what i wanted to do it was no problem. With Al Jazeera broadcasting live coverage of the escalating crisis, we expressed our concerns and frustrations at what was happening.
em called again, increasingly freaking out that she wasn't going to be able to persuade me to leave. the news only seemed to be getting worse. jack straw had enraged people even more with his explanation of why the monitors withdrew and consequently the british were being accused of colaboration with the isrlis - the most severe accusation in this part of the world. She had spoken to her boyfriend who's a journalist at the Observer and he had said i should get the hell out of there. the owner of the cafe who was sitting at the ajacent table told my friend that he thought i should leave jenin and that i shouldn't walk outside on the street. part of me wanted to stay, but the promises i'd made to my family that i wouldn't do anything stupid and em getting ever more agitated effectively made up my mind for me. Em said that if i could get myself to the northern checkpoint out of the west bank just north of jenin she would drive from jerusalem and get me from there. she wouldn't be able to leave for a further half hour and it was an hour and a half drive for her. the best thing seemed to be to bunker down where i was and wait for her to let me know she was leaving. the scale of the situation was fianlly registering with me. i put in a request for a water-pipe and another glass of mint tea and kept flicking my eyes between the street outside, the tv and the door everytime someone came in.
the others in the cafe were all glued to the tv. there were flinches or mutterings everytime an isrli tank fired another shell into the prison. the twin brother of my friend who i was with had been killed by the isrlis during the invasions of jenin in 2002. the fundamental outrage was about the arrogance and impunity of isrl's actions in the occupied territories, but with the threat of kidnap bearning down on me, a lot of our exchanges were about the stupidity of this growing trend in gaza and now seemingly spreading to the west bank. the nations of the world, led along by America and its allies, have allowed human rights abuses and state-terrorism to be unquestioningly justified and ignored under the banner of 'national security' and a new ideology of militarism despite the overwhelming cycle of violence which is so clearly only breeding more and more violence. However, despite these injustices, it is even more frustrating that a tiny fraction of those people who suffer their consequences choose the most self-defeating means to protest them. Despite the idiocy and sometimes criminal nature of the US government, the largest number of ex-pats visiting and working out here for the benefit of the palestinian people are from the states. to stigmatise a whole nation of people because of the action of their goverments, corporations or prejudist tele-evangelists is closed-minded bigotory in itself.
Gaza would be crawling with educated caring and committed internationals ready to work alongside the down-trodden people of the Strip if it was not for the fear from the waves of kidnappings which have swamped most foreigners out of there now. if this trend spreads to become the norm also in the west bank then all the palestinian people will lose their most direct voice of witness to the outside world. the travesities of justice which are committed against all those who happen to be born here will not have those in the international community to advocate their case and the isrli propaganda machine will be able to further convice the world that it is using legitimate means of self-defence, just as the US government will continue to do in iraq and all its other mis-adventures. And all the while we will all togther slip against our will down this slippery slope of retributive violence.
the news coverage continued as i took heavy drags from the nargile whilst also keeping an eye on who was coming in the door. my friend would periodically turn around from facing the tv to translate the latest developments to me. al jazeera had been able to speak to the wanted men by phone from inside the prison. they were all vowing to hold-fast until the end and never surrender. in the course of the day the whole of the west bank and gaza had become a powder-keg of anger, frustration and despair. it seemed like there was an unspecified countdown to the news that this man had been killed, and when that news came it was going to be the spark which ignited an instant eruption of violence and counter-violence. My friend at times held his head in his hands saying 'we will never live in peace'. he shook his head and conceded that he had the uneasy sense that if this man was killed it was going to instantly spark another intifada. It would happen so quickly that we would see it erupt through the window we were looking out of. but the next intifada would be different from the last. When i asked in what ways, one thing he mentioned was that he felt internationals would be targeted more in the way that they were being today. it is enfuriating that a small number of ignorant thugs could drive away most of those internationals who had left their homes to come to assist them in their struggle. over 99% of the people here have shown me nothing but hospitality and trust. even as i was there, smoking in a room of palestinians who clearly knew where i was from, there was a sense of solidarity for me from them. the owner of the cafe put my phone into charge behind the counter and when the coals on my water-pipe ran down he would come over a put some fresh ones on.
Em called to let me know that she was leaving jerusalem. i picked up my small bag and my friend payed the bill. i hadn't spoken to anyone else in the room, but it was clear to all what was happening. until i got up to walk out i didn't realise that my whole body was slightly weak with trembling and put together with the heavy smoking, my legs suddenly didn't feel so firm. the people in the cafe raised their eyes in a gesture of farewell. we left through the back door which led to a steep narrow spiral staircase which led on to the street below. my friend told me again to please not worry, but i actually slipped down the first couple of steps and had to firmly hold on to the banister the rest of the way down. walking along the main street to get the taxi, a place which had just begun to feel like it could become my home had suddenly become a hostile environment. we got to the taxi and i suggested that we asked it to spin past the house for me to pick up my other bags. i suddenly had the feeling that i might not be back for a while. We ran up the stairs, i hastily shoved my things in the bags, and back outside i threw them in the boot of the car. i sat in the passenger seat and the driver commented that all the foreigners were leaving today. 'sorry', i said.
we sped off along the main road that used to connect the town to Haifa before the west bank became a closed-in zone. the sun was shining as it had been doing all day and the wind again was blowing in my face. i was being evacuated from the place i had wanted to begin calling home. At the huge checkpoint, where you normally need to have organised co-ordination a long time before to cross over into Israel, the soldiers let me through with very little problem. they clearly understood exactly what was going on.
So i got to the other side and i was out of danger just as i got news that an american proffesor had been kidnapped just outside of jenin. i had over an hour to wait for Em to arrive. there was no-one else around. it was a good oportunity to sit on the curb and gather my thoughts. what had begun as just another outrageous isrli attack on palestinians had gradually turned into a water-shed incident which could not only have huge ramifications for the people and the area, but perhaps even for me also. if there was a small element of people who felt it was appropirate to vent their frustration by targeting those people who have gone to them to try to assist them just because their government had done something to offend them, then i was not sure that i would be able to conduct my research and therefore was not sure there was reason for me to stay. yet at the same time, only a few days earlier i had been moved by the news of the killing of Tom Fox from Christian Peacemaker Teams in iraq. Below is part of the news letter CPT released the day his body was discovered.
-- In response to Tom's passing, we ask that everyone set aside inclinations to
vilify or demonize others, no matter what they have done. In Tom's own
words: "We reject violence to punish anyone. We ask that there be no
retaliation on relatives or property. We forgive those who consider us their
enemies. We hope that in loving both friends and enemies and by intervening
nonviolently to aid those who are systematically oppressed, we can
contribute in some small way to transforming this volatile situation."
Even as we grieve the loss of our beloved colleague, we stand in the light
of his strong witness to the power of love and the courage of nonviolence.
That light reveals the way out of fear and grief and war.
Despite the tragedy of this day, we remain committed to put into practice
these words of Jim Loney: "With the waging of war, we will not comply. With
the help of God's grace, we will struggle for justice. With God's abiding
kindness, we will love even our enemies." --
At a time when the world is worshiping money, security and militarism, the strongest image i have heard of somebody following the way of Jesus is this man who was held hostage in iraq for months before finally being beaten with wire cables and shot because he had gone to a place to love his enemies. Despite the endless miracles and words of wisdom during Jesus life, in Mark's gospel it is only when he is utterly rejected and being executed by the state at the age of 33 that a man truly recognises that 'surely this was the son of God'.
so there is a lot to consider in these days and at present absolutely everything is up in the air. But maybe if we are serious about following the prince of peace then what perhaps sounds non-sense to most of the world is perhaps one aspect of following the one who told us to love each other as he had loved us?
By the way i by no means am trying to suggest that i am attaining to this ideal. i barely am able to love my friends and family let alone anything else. But it all just gives me sometimes a clearer idea of who Jesus was and what he was trying to convey.